2GIG Go!Control: DIY Installation

2GIG Go!Control: DIY Installation


Hi, DIYers. Sterling with Alarm Grid here. Today, we’re going to show
you how to install a 2GIG Go! Control panel. If you’ve ever seen our
YouTube channel before, this is the first time you’ve
seen a non-Honeywell product. This is a big release
for Alarm Grid. We’re finally branching
out to offer other product lines beyond Honeywell. The 2GIG product line
is the first thing that we’re going to launch. This is powered by alarm.com
for monitoring service. So whereas Honeywell
uses AlarmNet, which is an internal
division for their internet and cellular communicators to
provide cellular and internet monitoring and Total Connect
interactive services, the 2GIG panels are
powered by alarm.com, which is a third-party company
that makes cellular units. They have internet
modules as well, where again, you can get
monitoring without a phone line, and you can get system
control from a computer, smartphone, mobile device. So this is the
latest and greatest 2GIG panel on the market. It is a CP21-345. The 345 stands for
the 345 megahertz range in the RF radio
frequency technology. And what that means is
that the sensors that work with this panel are
the 2GIG sensors, which are on that frequency range. And also, if you know
anything about Honeywell, the Honeywell sensors work
on that same frequency. So you could use a 2GIG
sensor with this panel, And you can also, without
any other modules needed, learn in a Honeywell sensor. So any of the great
Honeywell 5800 wireless sensors that you’ve
come to know and love will be able to be
used with this system. So the 2GIG product
line with the sensor– well, the range of sensors
that they offer, they do have, of course, door sensors,
motion, smoke detectors, everything you
would normally need. But some of the more rare
or custom Honeywell sensors that you may want, temperature
sensors and things like that, could be enrolled
to this system. So we’re very excited
about this product launch, and we’re going to show you
how to put this system up on the wall. If you’ve ever seen our
Lynx Touch L5100 video, this may look familiar to
you, because we actually had that panel mounted right here. The back plates aren’t
exactly the same. So we’re going to
re-drill holes. But you can see, we’re going
to use our existing power wire, the LT cable that we
use for the Lynx Touch. We’re going to plug
that into this panel, show you how to get this on
the wall and get it powered up. So we’re going to review the
tools we’re going to need. First, we need a Philips head
and Flathead screwdriver. This one actually does both. So if you have one
of these, you’re probably in the alarm industry. But there are easy to get
Flathead and Philips head screwdrivers. We have a drill for our
three screws and wall anchors that will mount the
panel to the wall. And we have a level to make
sure it’s nice and neat. We’re going to start by removing
the back plate from the panel. There’s a small screw
right at the top here that needs to be removed. And then there
are two tabs right here where you’re going to want
to flip over to your flat head to pop the back plate
from the front cover. So we swap our
screwdriver, and we simply insert and pop each
tab individually to remove the back
plate from the panel. So we got one off. Got the other off. And the back plate is removed. You can see the circuit
board on the back here. We got our backup battery. We have our siren. We have our power terminals. And we have an input
for a DC barrel plug. So a couple of different
ways to power the system. We’ll talk about that a
little bit more in a second. We also need a pen or pencil
to mark our screw holes. This panel will ship with three
screws and three wall anchors that you’re going
to use to mount this back plate to the wall. So that’s the
first thing we want to do is pick our
location, mark our holes, and then get this back
plate secured to the wall. When you’re thinking about your
installation of your panel, this is your wireless receiver
to all of your sensors– your door sensors, motions,
everything that you’re using to protect your house. So you of course
want it in an area that’s going to be convenient
for arming and disarming as you come and go from the property. But you also want
it as centrally located in the
house as possible so that you get good wireless
range out to all your sensors. They’re not Wi-Fi. A lot of people assume that
these panels are communicating via Wi-Fi sensors. But again, it’s on
that 345 megahertz range on the radio
frequency technology. So typically, you’re going
to get about a 200 foot range from this panel to any
sensor in the house, which should cover most environments. But if you have this on one
side of your house, then maybe you don’t get all the
way out to the other side. If you put it in the
middle, then you’re getting the biggest
RF bubble that you can to cover the
whole entire house. So we are right near our garage
entry door, where we mostly enter the house. And we’re also
centrally located. The living room
is one room over. And this is a perfect
installation location for us, and the reason why we chose
to put the Lynx Touch here. So here we go. We’re going to put
our panel up here, and we’re going to keep it
in line with our thermostat that we have over here,
our Z-wave thermostat. And we’re going to use our
level to make sure that we have it nice and neat on the wall. We want to use this area here. Since we already have
our drywall hole, we’re not going to
make it any bigger. But you do have this
entire cut out here. If you had a drywall saw, you
could cut a hole for your power wire coming through so
it fits in the back, and you have this
flush on the wall without any pinching of a wire. So we’ve got to
make sure that this is lined up within the hole. And then we mark two
at the top and one at the bottom for our
three mounting screws. So we’re in line
with the thermostat. We are now level. And we just want to mark on
the wall our screw locations. Again, two at the top
and one at the bottom. Now that we have our marks,
we can take our drill and drill our holes for our
wall anchors and our screws. We’ve already cut power
at our circuit breaker to this location to
make sure that we’re not going to have any risk
drilling into the wall here. Now we take our three
white wall anchors that were shipped with the
product, push them in the wall. So I’ve got these wall anchors
pushed in as far as I could. We use the 5/32 drill bit. Maybe we could have gone
a little bit bigger, but otherwise you can just
tap these nice and flush to the wall so that when
we get our screws in there, the panel will be
flush to the wall. So a hammer might be a
nice tool also to have. So we’ve got our three screws
that came with the panel that we’re going to now screw
into the three wall anchors, and we’re going to
fit our back plate. You don’t want to screw these
all the way in until you’ve got your back plate mounted. So you just one at a time, get
them almost all the way in, just a few turns before they’re
fully screwed to the wall. So once you get the
first two screws, you actually want to hold off
on the third one, because if you look at the back
plate, they give you a handy little up arrow
to show you orientation. Also, you can use the
back plate screw location to show you the
top of the panel. The top two, you put the
screws in, snap shut and place. You want to make sure
you fish your power wire through the opening here. We’ve got a little
piece of tape that we were using to hold
the wire to the wall, just so it doesn’t
fall back in the hole. And this third bottom screw
now we can screw into place. You can always use your
level just to make sure. In case your holes
were misaligned at all, when you tighten
your screws down, you can always kind
of adjust a bit just to make sure you’re
nice and level for the permanent mounting. So I made a slight
adjustment there, and now I’m just screwing my
screws tight to the back plate so it’s not moving now. 2GIG has given us what they call
a third hand, which is nice, right, we only have two. So we hang this
little plastic tab here right onto this
little plastic mounting, and that allows us to
hang the panel down without having to hold it,
which makes it convenient as we hook up our wires. Now that we have our
control panel hanging from our secure back plate, nice
and neat and level on the wall, I’m just going to point
out what’s on this board here so that you’re
familiar with your 2GIG Go! Control and everything
that’s involved here. So our circuit board, our
brains of our panel, is here. We have our 2GIG-REC2-345E. This is our wireless receiver
for our wireless sensors. This module is built in and
included with every panel, and will allow you
to work with any of the 2GIG wireless sensors. It’ll also allow
you to use the 2GIG Pad 1, which is an
extra wireless keypad with button presses. We described earlier
that the 345 megahertz range is the same RF frequency
that Honeywell sensors use. So this is the same
wireless receiver that will work with Honeywell
5800 series sensors as well. The only device that does
not work with this receiver is the 2GIG TS-1. This is a really nice
wireless touchscreen keypad. Give you similar functionality
to the main control panel in a remote
location in the home. This device actually
is 900 megahertz range. So this is only 345. It will not work with TS-1. There is a 2GIG XCVR2, which
is a alternative wireless relay module. You would remove this
module, put the XCVR2 here. It’s got a little
pigtail antenna here that would come off, and you
would then have a dual channel wireless receiver
so you could work with your wireless sensors, and
you could work with that TS-1 touchscreen. So if you’re interested
in touchscreen keypads, keep in mind that you’ll need an
alternative wireless receiver. This would pop out, and you
would install the XCVR2. We have our backup
battery included right in this portion here. It connects and
plugs into the board on this two-pin connector. This is the standard
capacity battery that ships with the panel. There is a higher
capacity battery to give you up to 24 hour
backup battery run time. And that battery would
fit in the same location. You just pop out the
standard capacity battery. So again, if you’re interested
in a longer backup battery runtime, in case you have
longer power outages frequently in your house, you could upgrade
to a bigger, higher capacity battery. We have our siren right here. When the panel swings up, you
can see on the other side, this is where the siren
will emanate from. This is for our siren, our
chimes, our voice enunciations. The panel makes the noise
from this siren right here. We have this blue button
right at the bottom here. It’s a push button. This is a tamper
switch, and it’s held down by this plastic
tab at the top when the panel’s closed up. So when the panel’s closed
up, if it were to be opened, this switch pops out and
would indicate a case tamper. That is a signal that can be
sent to the central station to let the central
station know that someone is tampering with your system. And it’s just an added
protection in case someone’s trying to open up your panel
and do any kind of damage to the system. We also have a strip of screw
terminals on this terminal block. And I’m going to run through
what all these terminals are. Starting at the top,
we have HW2 and HW1. These are for if
you want to hook up a wired zone to the system. So most people that get
this panel, of course, are looking for a
wireless system. They’re going to have
wireless sensors. But let’s say you had a
door right near your panel, and there was an existing
hardwired door contact. You can actually route your
wire in through the back and connect to HW1 or HW2,
and also the GND terminal down, a few down, the
number three terminal. That would be your ground
for your hardwired zone. So you could actually hook
up a sensor or a series loop of multiple
sensors and break it out over two different available
hardwired zones on this Go! Control panel. We have a negative and
positive bell terminal. So if you wanted to
hook up a wired siren, you could do that by
connecting to those terminals. And we have an open collector,
basically, a trigger output that would allow you to
activate other devices that are wired to the panel based
on programmable actions that you would program for
the open collector terminal. You have our ground, our GND. We already described the ground
is used for the hardwire. It’s also used for
the open collector. And then finally, the
bottom two terminals– number one and two– would be our negative
14VDC and positive 14VDC. So unlike a lot of systems
that use AC power, the Go! Control, just like the Lynx
Touch, uses a DC transformer. Which means you have
to observe polarity, and you have to
make sure that you connect positive to the plus,
and negative to the negative. That’s going to be if you’re
using your own custom wire. Of course, you want to observe
wire length and wire gauge requirements that are listed
in the installation guide. So if you’re going to
have a really long run from your transformer
where you’re plugged into a regular
wall outlet to your panel, you’re going to want
to make sure you buy the proper wire for
the length of the run that you’re going to be using. So that’s in the
installation guide. And you want to make sure you
don’t exceed those limits. In our case, we’re
going to use our wire that we were using for our Lynx
Touch, which has a DC barrel plug. And therefore, we don’t have to
connect anything for DC power to the panel. We’re just going to simply
plug in to this port. You can’t see it at the angle,
but this is a barrel plug, a DC input for a DC barrel plug. So we don’t have to worry
about the screw terminals at all for our installation. So now that we’ve described
all aspects of our Go! Control CP21-345
control panel board, we’re going to go
ahead and power it up. So first thing we do,
connect our battery. It’s important that we do
battery first before DC power, so that if there is
any kind of surge, the battery will take it
and not the circuit board. We don’t want to
damage the panel. So always battery
first when powering up. You’ll notice, when we
plug the battery in, we have no screen yet. That’s simply because
the panel only powers up when it’s got DC power
from the wall outlet. This battery will
only hold it up when you already have that
power and you lose that power. So a lot of people get confused. Why is my panel not working? I plugged my battery in. That’s by design. Don’t worry. So now that the
battery is, in we’re going to provide our
DC power to the panel. And instead of hooking to our
plus and minus 14VDC terminals, we’ve got our barrel connector. Plugs directly to
this input here. Nice and easy, no screws needed
or no screwdriver needed. And we’re going to
just close this panel. Sometimes you lose your
connection on this third hanger when you try to close this. So just be careful
when you ever go back to open it that you don’t
let it just fall down. Connect on the bottom first, and
then it snaps shut on the top. Before we provide power, we want
to do our final installation step of screwing our case
screw to hold the control panel to the back plate. Now we’re nice and
secure on the wall. It’s not going anywhere. And our final step is to
plug in our DC transformer. All right. So we’re down here by our
two-prong wall outlet. A lot of people don’t realize
that their alarm system is actually powered just from
a transformer that simply plugs into a wall outlet. If you’ve got like a hardwired
system, a lot of people have no idea that
that transformer’s powering their system
somewhere in their house. A lot of times, you
have your control panel in a remote location
like a basement or a utility room
or a laundry room. And instead of having that
outlet right in that room, it may be fished through the
wall to a remote location. In our case, we’re directly
below our control panel. And we have our wire
fished coming here, and we’re going to plug
into this bottom plug with this transformer that
comes with our 2GIG Go! Control panel. And that’s how we’re getting
DC power to our system. This transformer– it’s
a little unique to Go! Control. They have this nice
little mounting bracket, which you peel the
tape, and it sticks right to your wall plate. It has a hole in
the top and a screw that you could use if this
outlet doesn’t have it, but a lot of outlets,
the wall plate, instead of a screw on
the top and the bottom, just has one right
in the middle. So when you fix this here, you
would take the wall plate off– or the screw, anyways– and then you would
insert this screw that comes with the transformer. And that’s going to hold
this clip to the wall outlet so that cleaning lady, family
member that doesn’t normally use the system, guest,
anybody that tries to go grab this outlet is going to
think twice before they unplug this, because again,
this is a very critical electronic
component in the home. You don’t want to have it
unplugged accidentally. So that’s what this
clip is all about, and why you would
get this screw. There’s even a zip
tie that comes with it so that you can zip tie it
so that no one would ever unplug this unit. So on the back of
the transformer, we have two screw terminals. This transformer’s not
going to come included with a wire already
attached to the panel, because 2GIG doesn’t know
how far your outlet’s going to be from your panel. We talked earlier how you have
to be within the listed wire gauge and wire length run. So however far you’re
going to run your wire, there are certain limits to
how thick the wire needs to be. With our run, we’re a few feet,
and this is 18 gauge wire. We’re well within the limit. So we’re going to peel our tape. And we’re going to simply affix
this clip so it’s centered over that bottom outlet. So now that we have our
clip affixed to our outlet, we have our wire. It’s got two spade
connectors, one for red for positive, one for
black for negative. If you’re using your
own custom wire, you’re just going to
have two conductors. You may not even
have red and black. It doesn’t really matter
what the color is. It just matters that if you’re
connected to positive 14VDC, that color wire needs to
connect to the positive terminal on the transformer. You probably can’t
see it in the video, but right here in
the plastic, there is a positive on the left
and a negative on the right. They’re marked DC so that you
know that polarity matters. If you’ve worked
with other alarm systems that are AC
transformer powered, polarity doesn’t matter. So again, on this
one, it’s critical that we connect positive to
positive, negative to negative. Otherwise, we’re never going
to get power to our system. So in our case, we use
our spade connectors. We’ve already loosened
up these screw terminals so that we have a gap here. And we just fit our spade
terminal under the screw, red to positive,
black to negative. And we screw these
down nice and tight. We don’t want this
to ever come undone, or we’re going to
have AC loss issues, and our system would
lose complete power once the battery drained. Now that we’re connected,
we give a nice little tug so we make sure we’re secure. If you were going to use
your own custom wire, a nice handy tip is if
you’re using solid wire, you don’t have to
worry about twisting. But if you’re using
stranded wire, you would twist the wires so
you get a nice tight connection. I like to put a little fishhook. If you wrap it around
your screwdriver, you get a nice little hook. And you can kind of feed
that hook up and around each terminal so you get
a nice solid connection onto each terminal. With the spade connector,
it’s even easier. So we now open up our clips
a bit, plug the unit in. We don’t need to use our screw,
because again, our wall plate doesn’t have it. But that would get
screwed in there. And the final step,
again, to make sure that we fish our wire back
in the wall and make it look as neat and
clean as possible. We take our zip tie. We feed it through the two
holes and pull it tight. You could snip the
end, but here we are not going to have
this transformer ever get unplugged by accident. You certainly don’t need to
have this zip tie on here. If you need to ever
power cycle your system, obviously you’d have to cut
this and have an alternative zip tie to keep it secure. But there’s other
ways to secure this. You could run a length of
thread or yarn or something, anything that would
really hold this tight. And the real important
thing is that we’re trying to highlight to anybody
that’s going to go and unplug this that this is an important
thing that should not get unplugged. So now that our transformer
is plugged in and secure, we’re going to pop
back up and check out the boot-up sequence of the Go! Control panel. We now have screen activity. Takes a minute to load. We just give this system
some time to power up. And we will then
see the 2GIG Go! Control CP21-345 powered on. System disarmed. Ready to arm. You can hear again the siren
voice enunciations coming here. Our Home button lights
up, and we finally have our nice
graphic touch screen showing that our 2GIG Go! Control now is ready to go. We hope you’ve enjoyed
this installation video. And we invite you to
subscribe to our channel. If you have any questions
on your 2GIG Go! Control system
installation, please email [email protected]

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12 Replies to “2GIG Go!Control: DIY Installation”

  1. I can disconnect or silence the siren but continue to operate the buzzer? either through the panel or disconnected some cable? because I do not want to sound the siren if between some thief

  2. i have almost the same unit, except under the plus sign it doesnt have the word EMERGENCY, it has pictures of 3 things, police, fire and a plus sign.. how do you find out what model number you have, all the boards say 2GIG, and does have a Z-Wave sticker in blue when i took off the control panel from the wall, Which i think was never enabled.. The problem is that yesterday, the whole system just shut down, like someone unplugged the unit.. The only thing that i have done with it is: took out the cord from the socket, and plugged it back in.. then while the plug was in took out the battery.. but still does not work.. Will this unit work if the battery is depleted or is out of the unit?..Is there a check list i can do… This unit is not being monitored, we did not renew the contract, and has been over for 2 years..

  3. Nice. I'm glad you covered the power run installation. Most people skip that step which in my opinion is a critical step. One question though, does the screen turn off when not in use? This will be in our master bedroom, and don't need any light coming from the unit if we're no interfacing with it.

  4. I have a 2gig GC3 control panel. I am installing flood/temp sensors 2gig FT1-345. What Sensor type should the sensor have. The 24 hour auxiliary does not even give a tamper when tampered less none a water alarm when tested with water.

  5. Hello. I am enjoying watching your videos and just found you offer monitoring as well. Does your company lock the panel and the Q-43 code when someone who owns their own panel gets monitoring from you? Thanks.

  6. I currently own a Honeywell Lynx Plus, can the transformer be used with the 2gig go control? I know the motions and door/window sensors can be programmed.

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