DSC PowerSeries Neo Alarm System Wiring Instructions – How you can be successful

DSC PowerSeries Neo Alarm System Wiring Instructions – How you can be successful


Hi, my name’s Jason with AlarmSystemStore.com. And in today’s video, I’m going to show you
how to do the wiring for the DSC PowerSeries NEO, so I’m gonna run through everything from
the terminals on the control panel, how to put the control panel in the cabinet through
some various devices. And while I’m not gonna show you everything,
I will show you some examples of a lot of different things to give you a good idea on
how to get started. So let’s go ahead and go to the table, and
we’ll get started with the control panel. So when you first unpack your DSC NEO, of
course you’ll have some other stuff as well, but one of the first things you’re going to
wanna do is mount your NEO control panel board into the cabinet, and you’ll use these little
plastic standoffs to do that. It all comes with it. But before we do that for the video, while
we can see it better on the camera, I wanna go over all the terminals here and just kind
of go over what they’re used for so that you can kind of see it better. So the first two things here is battery plus
and battery minus, and then there’s the two pin connectors there. This is where you’re going to connect your
backup battery, and then the next we’ll see here is AC. So the first two terminals here are for AC,
power from your power transformer, and then it shows the details of what you need up there
at the top. But you’ll just be hopefully using the power
transformer you bought with the system. Some of the kits come with it. If you didn’t get a kit, we do offer it, as
an option to add on when you buy the control panel itself. And of course there’s no positive or negative
there. It’s alternating current. So it doesn’t matter black, red wire, whatever
order you wanna go with. So then we have auxiliary, this positive,
negative. So this is DC auxiliary current. You’ll be using this to power things that
require constant powering like motion detectors, glass break detectors, things like that. Then we have our Bell terminal, positive or
negative. And this is where you’ll hook up your sirens. The next four terminals are the red, black,
yellow, green terminals. This is your core bus. So this is where you’ll connect keypads. You’ll connect expansion modules. Any other kind of modules you have will generally
connect to your core bus. Next you have PGM. This is your programmable outputs, and then
one and two. If you have a 2064, 2128, you’ll actually
have PGM3 and 4 here as well. This is the 2032 model, so it’s just got one
and two built on to the control panel. And you can buy expansion boards to get more
programmable outputs. This is where you’ll connect PGM tubes, where
you’ll connect 2-wire smoke detectors if you’re using them. Either PGM can be programmed to do a wide
variety of things. Generally smoke detectors for most people
is all you’re gonna connect to these. So I’ll go over some of that one when we go
through the wiring for smoke detectors. So then we have all of our zone terminals. So you’ll see the first one is Z1, and then
next to it is a Com. So Z1 and Com is where you’re going to wire
your zone one, initiating circuit into. And then next to that, you have Z2, and then
Z3. So Z2 and Z1 will actually share the Com terminal. The common terminals don’t really determine
which zone is going off. And just to make it easier, they’ve kind of…To
cut down on terminals and things like that, each zone is going to share Com with the zone
next to it. So zone one, zone two share this Com. Zone three, zone four share this Com, etc. And so, goes all the way to zone eight. Again, if you have a 2032 or higher module
NEO panel, you’re gonna have eight zones on here. The 2016 will only have six zones. So it won’t have zone seven or eight. Next to that is your ground. So you’d use this to ground the panel, help
protect it from power surges and things like that. And then finally you have the dialer terminal,
so RING, TIP, R1 T1. So if you’re connecting to a phone line, you’ll
definitely use RING TIP, and depending on how you’re wiring it up, you might use R 1
T 1 as well. Those are your main terminals. Most people will be using most of these terminals. There’s also some other things on here, PC
link one, PC link two. PC link two may definitely be used if you
have like Alarm.com communicator, you’ll be wiring up to PC link two. But generally speaking, you probably won’t
use those. And if you will, you’ll follow your manual
for whatever you’re connecting to these PC links. So now that we’ve gone over the terminals,
the next thing we’re going to do is mount the control panel into the cabinet. So you’ll use four standoffs to do that. And the standoffs are pretty simple. You’ll insert them through the back through
some of these holes. And then there’s four holes on the control
panel that you’ll put the standoff from. So it holds the panel off the metal cabinet. So the way that I always line this up is I’ll
actually take my control panel, you know, I’ll look and see which four holes it’s going
to use. So you can kind of line it up. You know, there’s a couple different places
you can line it up at. I usually use at the top-middle, seems like
the easiest for me, and so you can see it lined up in all four spots. And so you can mark them, you know, however
you want to figure out which one it is. So I know it’s this one right here. So you just go in from the back and just push
it in until it clicks into place. And then you can double check for the next
holes. That lines up there and then this one lines
up. So, again, you’ll go in from the back. It’s hard to do when you’re not looking at
it, and it clicks into place. And then you do that for the other side as
well. So it lines up. It’s this one, and then you do the last one,
which is this one right here. So now that you have them in the cabinet,
you just wanna carefully line this up. Make sure that there’s some wiggle room with
those. Make sure they’re all in place. Then you just push pressure on there. It takes quite a bit. You know, as long as you’re holding it near
where those four pressure points are, you’re not gonna hurt anything, and it’ll click into
place. Now you can’t pull it off. If you ever need to take it off, there are
kind of these barbs [SP] that you just take some needle nose pliers. Push those in and you can kind of work its
way off. So now that we’ve got the control panel mounted
into the board, the next thing we’ll wanna do is mount this on the wall. You’ll probably already want the wires ran
through if you’re coming in through the wall, because you’ll wanna be able to slide them
through this. So let’s go over to the wall where we’re gonna
put this and we’ll mount it up. So the first component I’m gonna show you
how to wire is the power transformer. This one has just the two posts, like you’ll
see with many of them. It’s AC. So there’s no positive, negative. You can hook up red wire, black wire wherever
you want. Some of them will have a third post in the
middle, and that’s your ground post. And so keep that in mind. Usually, you’ll just use your two outside
ones as your AC posts. And so I’m just gonna use a regular 18 gauge
of wire two conductor. It’s got red and black, doesn’t matter which
ones you use on which post. I can put black here. I can put red here. Doesn’t matter. And I’ve just got these little Spade [SP]
connectors on there to make it a little easier to connect. So I’ll put one under there, tighten that
down, one into there, tighten that down, and that’s it. So let me get my next component here. All right, the next device I’m going to show
you how to wire is a keypad. So there’s the keypad. You’ll wanna get a screwdriver and your four
conductor wire as well as your small screwdriver. The reason I have this bigger screwdriver,
it’s got this flat head tip on here, and it’s a fairly thin… But you’ll see at the bottom of the keypad
here… Of course, ours is all dinged up because this
has been open and closed so many times and generally just using one of these screwdrivers
because it’s just our demo keypad. But to avoid damage, you’ll wanna put as big
screwdriver as you can into one of these slots, just a flat head. And you can see this one fits just about perfect,
same exact size. You put it in, and then you just wanna pry
it up just like that. And you’ll do that on both sides. And with the PowerSeries NEO keypads, compared
to the older generation, they definitely use a lot thicker, stiffer plastic on the spec
plate. So it does take a decent amount of force to
get that open. Once you do, you just fold it [inaudible 00:11:33]. When a back plate is on here, you can see
there’s a little knockout right here. So that’s where you’ll want to put your wire
through. And then on the keypad, you can see on the
board we have the red, black, yellow, green terminals. And then there’s a fifth one, that’s for keypads
zone. For this purpose of this video, we’re just
going to be using the red, black, yellow, green, which is your core bus wires. So take your four conductor wire, tighten
that down. Black is next, and then yellow, and finally
green. Tighten that down, and then, of course, this
will be mounted on the wall when you’re actually installing the system. But you’d slide the keypad back in there and
then it just snaps into place. And then you got your keypad wired. All right, and then let’s go to the next device
here. So the next device I’m gonna talk about is
a siren. This is just a regular SD15W from DSC. This is what’ll come in your kits and it’s
very similar to most sirens. So let’s pop this back plate off. And you can see in here it’s got some wires,
kind of a pigtail kind of here. So it’s got black, red, yellow, six wires. Now, when you’re wiring up, of course, as
you’ve already seen on the control panel, there’s a positive and negative for the Bell
output. So what do you need six wires for? Well, these sirens actually have two tones. The black is your common wire, red is for
a yelp tone, and yellow is for a steady tone. Now, each siren might be slightly different,
you know, will usually come with a little piece of paper. For this one, it’s actually printed on the
back here. It shows you what’s what. If you’re unsure, you can always just take
black to negative, red to positive directly on your battery, you’ll hear what it sounds
like. And then do your yellow and black and that’ll
show you as well. So if you’re ever in doubt, it’s an easy way
to check. Now, the reason there’s two of each is because
these will actually be wired in parallel with each other. So you’ll have a black from the panel, and
then if you have another siren down the line, you’re gonna take black to that other siren. So this just an easy way to… You know, use your twist connectors however
you wanna connect these to your 18 gauge wire coming in. Connect black and then do the same thing going
to the wire on your next siren, same thing for your positive wire, whichever one you
use. Now, if you use red, you’re gonna use both
reds. If you use the yellow, you’re gonna use both
yellows. And your next siren you can switch. You don’t have to stay on one, although most
people will. That one’s pretty easy. Again you’ll connect your wires however you
want. Easiest is with one of the twist kind. Let’s get one rated for 18 gauge wire. So
let’s go to the next item here. The next device I’m gonna show is a simple
magnetic door contact. And this will be an example of just a two-wire
passive zone, and so it doesn’t require any power. So if you’re not using resistors, you’ll just
plug in both wires into there, screw it down and you’re done. However, if you are using a resistor, you’ll
need to put the resistor in series with one of the wires. So you’ll connect the resistor to the wire
and then the contact to the resistor and then your other wire will connect to the contact. So if you want more information on resistors,
what they do, etc., we do have a video that goes into depth on resistors and really probably
goes into more depth than you’ll ever need. So the easiest way to connect your resistor
to one of your wires is with one of these B connectors. It’s just a crimp connector. You will take, line each of the wires up,
and you’ll just insert them into the connector. You don’t want them sticking all the way through,
but it’s best to put them a decent way through. And with one of these crimp connectors, you
actually don’t even need to strip the wire at all, because it’s got little spikes in
there that will push through the shielding and will get to the bare wire even without
doing any stripping of the wire. So you just crimp it down like that. I like to go over it a couple times, make
sure it’s tight, and then tug on and gently make sure that both the resistor and the wire
in there is securely. Then make sure they have a good contact there. So once you have that, you’re going to take
your resistor and insert it into the contact. And this uses a Philips, and then you just
screw that down. Now with these small gauge wires and resistors,
you don’t need to go too tight or you’ll potentially break the wire. So you do wanna make sure that they are in
there tight. So, again I’ll usually tug on those gently. Make sure that they’re good. And then with these, you just kind of fold
it back, and then it’s pretty easy to, you know, go into the wall cavity with the whole
wire resistor and everything so that there’s not much showing other than the contact. And like I said, for every two wire zone that
doesn’t require power, you know, temperature, switches, or pump switches, things like that,
this is the same way you’ll do it for all those. So let’s put this to the side and then we’ll
get out our next device. This is a motion detector. It’s a, LC100 is the model of it, but this
will be the same way for any powered device you have, so anything that requires a four-wire
connection, motion detector use, glass breaks, the most common. And these are normally close, which is in
almost every case. So let’s open this one up. These can be tricky. There it goes. So on here, you’ll see there’s quite a few
terminals. The main ones that we’re going to be looking
at for this are the 12 volts plus and minus, and then we have our common and normally-closed. This one also has a few other terminals, but
not every motion detector has those. So I’m just gonna stick with our basic four
ones, normally-closed common, and then 12 volt minus and plus. You can always refer to the manual if there’s
additional terminals such as this normally open and T1 and T2. So we’ll start with the power. Now on this one, you knock out one of these
holes in the back so that you can run your wires through there. I’m not gonna bother doing that for this video. So we’ll just start with the positive and
it’s a flat head, so we’ll switch sides on my screwdriver here. And red you’ll always wanna go to your positive. Black will always go to your negative. That way you stay consistent. And then again for these, doesn’t really matter
which one goes in common and which one goes to normally closed. I’m just gonna put my resistor into one of
those, and yellow wire we’re gonna do to the C. Tighten that down, and that’s all there
is to that. So then you’d close the case back up and move
on to your next device. The last devices I’m going to show are smoke
detectors. I’ve got two here. First one is a two-wire and the second one
is a four-wire. Now the backplate here, it’s pretty easy to
mount this to your ceiling. You can check the manual on how to do that
and you’d, of course, run your wires through the backplate. For this video, I’m just gonna set them to
side. So you can see that these look almost identical
with the exception of the terminals here. So for the two-wire, you have three terminals. It’s kind of a little counterintuitive. But the first two are positive, so positive,
positive. And the third one is negative. So if this was your only sensor, you’d just
be running a positive in and the negative in. If you had another sensor in line, you’d run
a positive in, negative in, and then a positive out and a negative out. For the two-wire, the alarm initiating circuit
is the power circuit as well. It’s shared on the same circuit. For the four-wire, you have the same first
three terminals, positive, positive, negative. But then you have your alarm initiating circuit
or the alarm relay. It’s a normally open end common. Now, these are normally open devices. So the last device in line for your zones
are going to require resistors. So let’s start with the two-wire smoke. I’ll grab my two conductor wire here. Now for this, even though it’s a two-wire
connection, I am going to be using red and black. My reason for this is it’s powered. So it’s positive, negative. It’s easier to keep track that way. And then I’m also going to grab the resistor. So we’ll act like this is our last two-wire
smoke in the line. Now, with two-wire smokes, you do need to
make every two-wire smoke on the same circuit in parallel. The resistor that is used is a red, red, red,
gold, which is 2.2K. So the 2.2K resistor, you’ll set under positive
and negative, just like that. And then you’ll take your red wire to positive,
tighten that down, and black wire negative. Now you can see this is a little bit different
than you saw with our just regular passive zones, normally closed zones. The difference is that with normally open,
your resistor has to be in parallel instead of series. So it has to be across your two connections. So there you have your two-wire and again,
this is what the last one in the circuit would look like. If this was not the last one, we wouldn’t
have the resistor here and we’d have another black wire going to negative on the next two-wire
smoke. And we’d have another red wire going from
this metal positive to the next two-wire smoke. So let’s set that one to the side and do our
four-wire. So the four-wire also uses a resistor and
it’s going to use just a regular zone resistor, the green, blue, red. And you’re not gonna put this on the power
wires. You’re gonna put it under the alarm relay. And again this is as if this is the last four-wire
smoke in the circuit. Now one of the benefits of the four-wire smoke
detectors, you can run each one of these to a separate zone if you want. You can connect two on a zone, two on another
zone, however you wanna split these up, and then your power is still gonna be in parallel,
whether you’re doing home runs or running one continuous parallel circuit, however you
wanna do it. So let’s start with the power wire. So we’re gonna go positive with the red wire,
negative with the black wire, and then the green and yellow wires, doesn’t really matter
which order you do, because these are not polar. And then just like that. So if you had another one in the circuit,
you would not have the resistor and you’d be going positive to positive. And you use this middle positive to go out,
negative to negative, normally open to normally open, com to com until you get to the end,
in which case you’d put your resistor and you’d just have the four wires coming in,
no wires going up. So that’s it for the various devices. That should give you at least an example of
kind of every type of device you’ll have. This obviously isn’t every kind of device
you’ll have but should give you a good idea on the wiring for those. So let’s go ahead and move to the wall and
we’ll get finished. All right, so I got the wires running through
the back of the panel and then I’ve also put on these three plastic standoffs. And these are going to be for my zone expander. So here’s the zone expander. You can see it’s a smaller board and it’s
gonna fit right there on the panel. It’s got three holes, one, two, and three
that those plastic standoffs go through. And there’s a couple other locations. You can put it down here, up here, there’s
also location on this side. So you can put multiple of these in this style
cabinet. If you have the main board in here, you generally
don’t wanna put more than…maybe two at the most in the main cabinet. And so let’s just look real quick at some
of these terminals. So starting on the left here, you have tamper
plus, then auxiliary plus, and then red, and then black, yellow, green. So the red, black, yellow, green is your core
bus. And then just like on the main panel, you
have your eight zones with the Coms, so Z1 Coms, Z2, Z3 Coms, Z4, etc., all the way to
zone eight on the far right. So to put this in, just like the main control
panel, you line up your standoffs with the holes and then just press, clicks into place. Another thing to note, you wanna make sure
that your terminals are on the outside. If you put it in correctly, the holes only
line ups at the terminals on the outside, so whether you do it on this side or this
side, it only lines up one way. So now I’m gonna start by wiring up our zone
expander first. So the first thing you wanna do is you need
to put a tamper wire in. So if you’re using a cabinet tamper, you know,
maybe this is connected to zones but it’s in its own cabinet or, you know, something
like that, you can use a cabinet switch to wire to the tamper. And that way if somebody opens it, you get
a trouble condition on the alarm system saying there’s a module tamper. If you don’t use the tamper switch, you just
need to put a jumper there. And so the jumper is going to go into tamper
plus and then it’s going to go into black. And so if you hook it up like this with a
jumper, you’re not gonna get that tamper. This is a common issue. People think, “Oh, I’m not using a tamper
switch. I’ll just leave it.” But you get the tamper trouble condition because
there’s not a closed circuit there. So that’s one thing to watch out for. So now that we have that in place, we’re going
to take just a short piece of wire and we’re going to wire up the core bus. So nice thing about the core bus with standard
alarm wire, you just follow the colors of the terminals, so red, black, yellow, green. All right, there you have it. So then we have the other end of the wire
here, which we’ll wire up to the core bus on the main control panel. So I’m gonna switch camera angles and do the
rest of the wiring. All right, so we’ll start with our zone expander
since we already have the wire right here ready to go. And it just goes to your core bus, so red,
black, yellow, green, nothing too complex there. And so these don’t need to be super tight
like I was saying before. This kind of terminal block can easily break
these wires if you get a little overzealous with it. So there’s that wired up. Now you really, you can wire these up in any
order. I’m gonna start on the left-hand side here. So I’m gonna find the one I’ve labeled as
AC, and these will just go into the AC terminals. Now, remember that these are not polarized. So it doesn’t matter positive, negative. Red and black can go to either one. Out of habit I usually put red first and then
black, but it doesn’t matter at all. So then we have our Bell right here. So you can see it’s labeled Bell. So this is going to go Bell positive, negative. Now this one is…you know, it’s a DC circuit. So you do have a positive side and a negative
side. If you don’t wire it up right, it may not
work right. And I’m always tugging on these just a little
bit to make sure that they’re in there. So then you just have to start going through
your wires, and you can kind of see by this mess of wires here. And I don’t even have that many wires. I’m just doing some examples. You could easily have twice as many wires
or more coming in to the main panel. If they’re not labeled, it can be quite a
task to figure out what’s what. So hopefully whoever ran your wires labeled
them. If they didn’t, you’ll just have a nice task
before you. We are going to be… If the video is not already up, we should
have a video up soon on how to determine where wires go. So hopefully that will be up when you see
this. If not, it should be up soon. So here’s one. This says key. So this is my keypad. Keypad gets wired to the core bus, red, black,
yellow, green. So we’ll start with red here. Another thing to note while I’m doing this
is that you don’t wanna strip your wires too much. You can only put them so deep into these terminal
blocks. So if you have a bunch of wires stripped,
you know, I’ve seen them where people have them stripped so that they’re like an inch
long bare copper. Those could easily cross over and short with
something that you don’t wanna short with. At the very least, it could cause your system
not to work right. And worst case scenario, it’ll cause serious
damage to the equipment. All right, so the key bus is wired up. Next thing we’ll do…let’s just move on to
zone one. So here’s our zone one. Now zone one is our door contact. So it’s just a passive contact. It doesn’t need the power. So we’re gonna get rid of red and black. Just fold those over, and we’ll just use these. Again, it doesn’t matter. Really, yellow, it could go to Z1 or Com. The way I normally do it, and you don’t have
to do it this way, is yellow I do to Z1, so yellow to zone and green to Com. That’s just the way I do it. I like to stay consistent so that…you know,
I’ll do yellow to all my zones and green to all my Coms. But you don’t have to do that. So now let’s find zone two here. This one’s zone two. So I got Z2, and this one is our motion detector. So it’s going to go to zone two. We’ll put the yellow wire in Z2, the green
wire into Com. And these share a common terminal. So you’ll wanna fit them both in there. Just like that. And this does require power. So we’re gonna run these two red and black
to aux plus and aux minus. So if I can get it in there, aux plus, aux
minus. Just like that. Okay. Next one we’re gonna do is our two-wire smoke
detector. So two-wire smokes only have the positive,
negative wires. They have no separate alarm relay or initiating
circuit. So for this, I’m just going to use my red
and black. So red is actually going to go to aux plus. There we go. And black always for a two-wire smoke has
to go to PGM2. PGM2 is the only PGM that allows you to use
two-wire smokes. So your smoke zone for the two-wire, and then
last thing we have here is a four-wire smoke. So four-wire smoke detector has power wires
and then the alarm relay. So the alarm relay we’re gonna run to zone
three. And I marked this as four-wire just for the
example. If I was doing this, I would actually probably
label this with a zone number, and usually I’ll label with a zone number as well as what
the zone is just so I don’t have to look at a cheat sheet or something like that. I’m just dealing with three zones on this
example. So it’s pretty easy to remember what’s what. But if you have 16 zones coming into the panel,
it can be hard to remember which one’s a door contact, which one’s a powered device, motion
detector, glass break, whatever it is. All right, so red wire is going to go to aux
plus. Now you can start to see here how these terminals
can get pretty crowded. And really if you are doing more than three
wires, in my opinion, it starts to get kind of annoying. It’s hard to get the wires in there. When you do get the wires in there, it’s kind
of hard to keep them all tight in there. To remedy this for aux plus and minus as well
as your key bus, because if you have multiple keypads, this can get pretty crowded pretty
quick, especially when you start adding in other modules. The way to fix that is with a BT 600. All this is is a terminal expander. It’ll basically take one of these terminals,
you run a wire to the BT 600, and then it’ll expand that terminal out to six more terminals. So it gives you a lot of extra room to put
in wires. And each BT 600 has two sides. So you can run two terminals off one BT 600. So if you’re doing it for your aux plus and
minus, that’ll be one BT 600. For your key bus, you’ll probably want two
BT 600s. So generally, you know, if you have a decent
size system, getting three of those BT 600s is probably a pretty good idea. It really helps clean up your wiring and makes
things connect a lot better. They come with an adhesive pad. So you can stick it right to the side of the
control panel if you want or you can even get your own control panel kind as a junction
box or however you want to do it. All right, so the black wire for the four-wire
smoke. We’re going to run to PGM one. It’s only one smoke detector, so PGM one’s
got enough current to power it. And the reason you have to connect it to a
PGM as opposed to just doing aux plus, aux minus is your smoke detectors are a latched
alarm. So whenever they detect smoke, it’s going
to latch and stay in an alarm state until the power is cycled to it. So if you have it wired up to aux plus, aux
minus, you’re just going to have to restart your whole system. So you’re gonna have to unplug the backup
battery, unplug your AC, power the whole thing down, power it back up, and then you’re gonna
have to reset your time. It’s a pain really. But if you have it connected to a PGM that’s
programmed as sensor reset, all you have to do is type in *72 on your keypad. That turns the power off to that PGM type
for five seconds and then powers it back up. So it’s a lot easier than coming into the
cabinet, taking off your backup battery, finding your AC transformer, unscrewing it from the
wall outlet, and pulling that out. It’s a lot easier to do it with the PGM. So the last thing that we’re going to hook
up is our backup battery. I got one of the big ones here. So you can kind of put it wherever you want
in the panel or near the panel. Most of the times, you’re gonna just wanna
put it inside. So if somebody’s trying to tamper with your
system, they can’t just come in and unplug it. And as you can see, this is why you’re probably
only gonna wanna put one or two of your expansion boards in this cabinet, because once you add
in this plus all your wires, it gets really messy. Of course, these wires I kind of push back
through the wall to keep it as clean as possible in here. So here is the connector for the battery. It’s got the pin side and then two Spade connectors
for the battery terminals. Now, your battery is a DC voltage. So it’s got a positive, negative side on the
battery as well as the control panel. So you wanna make sure you get that right. This pin connector and the Spade connectors
can easily be switched around. So I just wanna make sure you pay attention. It’s nothing hard, but if you’re not paying
attention, it can be easy to mess up. So you just slide that on and it’ll latch
in place there, and then your Spade connectors will just go on to the battery here. And it’s a tight fit, which is good. That’s the way you want it so they don’t just
easily come right off there. So once that’s on there, that’s all the basic
wiring for the alarm system. Now, you might have a lot more wires. Like I’ve been saying, you know, you might
have all eight zones. You might have a phone line connected to your
TIP and RING, possibly the R1 T1, depending how it’s setup. You may have an expansion board in here or
maybe you have an Alarm.com communicator or you have an interface module, PCL422. But everything pretty much wires up just like
this. That should kind of give you a good sense
of how anything that we sell for the NEO wires in. So hopefully you’ve got a good idea on how
to do all your wiring for your DSC PowerSeries NEO. If you like the content of the video, be sure
to hit the thumbs up button and subscribe to our channel for more videos like this. And you can also visit our website. We have lots of resources as well as equipment
if you’d like to purchase anything. Thanks, and I’ll see you in the next video.

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4 Replies to “DSC PowerSeries Neo Alarm System Wiring Instructions – How you can be successful”

  1. Jason obviously has a lot of experience in the field installing systems. He did a great job explaining and demonstrating the connections. Unfortunately the camera was upside down in half of the video. Hopefully his cold has gone away also – haha. Thank you Jason!

  2. Helpful vid but did how did no-one notice the long explanation of the terminals was filmed upside down!

  3. I just read something online about removing jumper J1 on Con1 when using 2wire smks? Never seen or read or have done this, true? Also states that if no jumper on the board then it does not support 2wire… Odd

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