Ford Ranger PX1 PX2 – Tailgate Central Locking Mod 2012 – 2018

Ford Ranger PX1 PX2 – Tailgate Central Locking Mod 2012 – 2018


How’s it going everyone my name is Joel and is my 2015 Ford Ranger PX 2 and today i’m going to show you guys how to install central locking into the tailgate currently to unlock the tailgate you actually have to get your key out put it in and turn it. It doesn’t actually work with the rest of your central locking which is pretty annoying especially you shouldn’t carry boxes and stuff like that so we’re going to install that there and connecting it off our fuel cap because there’s a central locking actuator in there so basically jumper off that connect in here. Like with any modification do it at your own risk but it’s pretty straightforward. All right let’s get to it. Alright so first of all we need to remove the tub liner. Some models will don’t have it. The higher end models can be the standard is option you can put it on any model either way. We need to do that into the torx T27 bit some people call it a security bit into the star shape. Six bolts along here and one there and one there. I’ll show Before we go any further make sure you have a parts bin, put everything in there now. The last thing you want is to be missing a bolt at the end Okay, so once you remove the Torx bit we need to take this plastic section off, to do that there’s actually a sticky edge along the bottom of the tailgate. So you get a screwdriver or something rubber, and make sure not scratch the paint obviously let’s lever it off on might be able to do it with my finger Once that’s all you go slide it out of this plastic section right here All right so after removing the plastic section there’s one more metal part that we need to pull of before we can access for locking mechanism. There’s four more screws along here she just come off really easy mechanism looks like this part moves when the locking barrel is actually turn so that a lot and that’s what you notice these arms don’t move come on this model using a standard cast interlocking actuator these can we pick up for most electronic stores and automotive retailers this one using today was from Jake are and as with about 15 goals the important thing to note is to use a master actuator not a slave the difference between the two is the master allows us to still use our key or as your slave does not next up we need to connect the actuator the locking mechanism now the best way we’ve figured out to do this is just with a cable type you can use the fugitive things like split pins or a wire cable or you might have make up some kind of break it yourself but cable ties let’s go i’m laying around pretty simple to get and easy to attach next we want to connect our actuator to the mechanisms that pull the door locks and unlocks easiest way to find that is to put the key in the barrel from underneath turn the left to right and you’ll see that part move once you found that part just put the cable ties to the islet of the actuator and then through data mechanism once we’ve got the actuator cable tied in we need to make up some kind of bracket I recommend these just from bunnings it’s called a maker bracket genius so grab one of them you can bend it to the shape you want so there you go that’s kind of shape we want to get so we can put it under there under there and I’ll sit just like that and the actuator will connect something it’s pretty tricky because we’re making up our own bracket but easiest way to roughly gauge where to put it is to put one of the screws in to start with that way he gives us a rough idea we were actually going to fit it might actually work next we want to get the second one in so i recommend flipping over using just a small fill go through just as a pilot hole just to market alright once you drill the pilot hole you all got a bigger one this is a 5 mil just to match the other holes we got once we drill the final hole we’ll put the other screw in like so and we’ll do it up and just try and line it up the best we can move the body of the okay all right now that we’ve got it all lined up we need to figure out we’re going to drill into the tailgate let’s do that we’ll just remove the bracket to undo these again okay so once the gun down then we’ll put the bracket on top and try to line up the holes and fish we can and will mark on the tailgate where we want to do alright so the market you can use wherever you want love with a picky up and use the thinner punch or a pen or we drive on whatever then just scratch out a section where you’re going to go stay on this side that’s it so we’ve gone ahead and put the bolts in it goes to honey to side tighten them up and put their main screws in hold it on so next up we want to test it out make sure it is actually moving the component you wanted so as I think I showed you earlier that is the lock to mechanism so the lock to settings then come on let’s see if it moves as if make sure setting the key so to do that we’ll grab a 12 volt supply and put it on just hold them another way for me 30 then this should be siphoned look at that that good that works so now who are sort out and wiring here so that’s what it looks like now that it’s all done up and it’s hard to see that that sounds connected to the mechanism so it is to actually work mainly the blue and the green that’s if you’re using the J car actuator the other three cables we we’ve not actually using so just cut them take them up so they’re not making contact with each other and then we’re going to cable tie it off up here just so it’s out of the way you don’t want to hit the body or any other bit of metal just got that cable flied out of the way so I mean contact and off so that’s secured let’s hang underneath all clear of this because that’s going to move and also clear from the actuator movement and we’ve got these two which we’re going to basically connect to the fuel actuator all right so now that we’ve got our actuator installed and our bracket installed we’re going to run the cable to the fuel pump open I sew the type of cable is recommend is to call cable and it’s double insulated so it’s got a black insulation plus each core is insulated individually just a bit better just in case there’s any rubbing that goes on political a little bit more protection so to start we’re going to basically look at where we want to run the cable through you’ll notice on the bottom is tailgate is a few holes basically links for drainage but we’ll just use the one closest to the fuel cap opener so right about you I want to pass it through the hole the bottom there’s a second hole about halfway through the tailgate passing through there just feed it through now just to give it a bit of extra protection again I recommend using some of this stuff Lexi I kwon do duck stuff just pass that through as well so now that we’ve got our cable through the two holes we’re going to table try it along just so it’s not loose and being around as we drive so cable tight nice and close on to where the bracket is and make sure you leave a bit of extra cable just in case we need to cut it later okay another cable play here all right next up we’re going to have a look at our cabling on the back of the actuator behind the fuel cap so jack says that we need to undo that one that one that one and you could take the whole thing off you want but for now we’re going to take those off just to give us all directors behind you need a Phillips head just undo plastic screw and then use the flat head to just leave it out so that put them in pots tray also my safe once I remove the clicks at the front there’s two more on the top two more of the back and two on the inner side of the top is pull that down and the clip is the one that’s directly up you actually see the cable hanging down just about here okay so you’ve got to push in here the front side of the car and just pull that down and then sit there and base what we’re going to do cut it back there join our cable onto that so let’s remove the tape to expose the cable then cut back some of the conduits there’s enough space to join our wiring try to avoid using quick connects assaulting is the best option possible next cool table food from the rear is itself and guitar the wiring out of the way so won’t make contact with the wheel or the wheel will once the cable has been full crew begins solid in stories good practices all that as close to the fuel tank as possible this will ensure you die immediately it’s a case of an explosion but in all seriousness be careful storing your fuel tank so added protection add sexual pun juice just remember to take up southern people what to put the conduit all over all our cable for the protectors just plug it back into it we’ve got it out of make sure hear a click so now it’s all done we’ll put everything back together just cable tie up everything out the waist let’s not hang down on a lil art there’s a few spots on the here that are pretty good for that once you satisfy the cables out of the way begin reassembling the wheel launch alright the next up we’re going to make sure we’ve got our positive and negative round all right way how it works is when you hear it lock sends positive down one leg when you hear unlock it does the opposite so we’ve got a test to make sure we’ll get around the right way so here I’m up now just test that that’s backwards that’s locked swap them around hit it again for us so I’m looking now and just hit lok just test that works so now we know which legs which connect to the excavator so that’s it go on full now so we hit the unlock or lock button tailgate happens as well which is an awesome feature the car probably should’ve cambria’s to begin with but i’m pretty much now we’re just going to pack it up same as how we pulled it apart but i’ll show you again anyway but it’s pretty easy mod so all right that’s it pretty easy mod only you probably about twenty dollars in part and save this words the time which I want to open into the boot anything to watch out for make sure you never get the unlock button and then leave your keys in the back the stores do lock automatically slide and that’s it so thanks for watching

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25 Replies to “Ford Ranger PX1 PX2 – Tailgate Central Locking Mod 2012 – 2018”

  1. Good video, I've done mine a little different, but this is gonna be very helpful to others going forward.
    Good production as well. Enjoyable to watch.
    www.bigwillracing.com.au

  2. Mate awesome vid, will get onto doing mine asap !
    I don't suppose you've run any lighting in the tub ? (Led strip lighting)
    I'm trying to work out the best spot to tap into the wiring for this , as everything seems to be on timers , ie: aux plug etc… and needs the ignition switches on and while I have the wheel arch covers out for the actuator , there might be something in there , do you's know ?
    Cheers

  3. I was so inspired by your video, I did myself today! Thanks a lot for the detailed video. Just a point: The connector for the fuel filler lock has a lever which needs to be pushed in to allow the connector to be pulled down/removed. This lever is a small ribbed portion of plastic just under the smooth flange which covers the whole connection. It's location is facing forward to the front of the vehicle. I had a dickens of a time getting off until I realised where the lever was. It has to be pushed in, which isn't easy either depending on how much dirt and dust there is up there. 🙂 Only problem I have now is the cable is poking out the back of the ute between the tailgate and hole below it. Never mind. When it stops working I'll do something about it…

  4. Thanks for the info!! I have a 2017 xlt with push fuel cap. Do you know if the wiring is still run to the cap si I can do the install. Cheers robert

  5. Great vid! That bit about soldering near the gas tank was hilarious! You got me thinking about modding mine! Cheers!

  6. hello there..can't i really use the actuator with just 2 wires?i ordered an actuator with 5 wires online, but when it arrived, they sent me the one with only 2 wires. I really want to do this to my ranger but I'm stuck with the wrong actuator.

  7. hello there..can't i really use the actuator with just 2 wires?i ordered an actuator with 5 wires online, but when it arrived, they sent me the one with only 2 wires. I really want to do this to my ranger but I'm stuck with the wrong actuator.

  8. Best instructional video I have seen for a long time. Clear instructions with great editing. Don't know how you would have done it without your "helper". Ha

  9. Fantastic Video – I did it over the weekend and works a treat. I am sure you can use the LR8813 Slave as it has the Blue/Green wires to actuate the lock.

  10. Hi, Ive done this mod but it keeps breaking the wire ties from the lock to the solenoid arm Is there something else more durable, maybe wire or an o ring?

  11. Thanks Joel. I just did my 2016 Mazda BT50 using your video. Very similar to the Ford. Works well and only cost $35 in parts and 3 hours of labour.

  12. You guys have really helped me out! Can't thank you enough. The tailgate central locking kits available on Ebay are going for about 200 to 250 but thanks to your video and Jaycar it cost me $33 for the part and wiring. This video is the bomb and everything works really well. No more worrying about whether you've secured your tailgate! Thanks heaps Joel.

  13. This was an awesome project and I did it to my 2016 Ford Ranger a year ago. This eas the best tutorial video for this kind of mod. I was wondering though, can we make a mod that would open/release the tailgate using just the remote? That would be a lot cooler. 😆

  14. Yup, good video to get me started. Thanks you blokes.
    I used the rod and bracket which was supplied with the $15 Jaycar actuator. To fit it, I removed the lock and handle assembly to gain access to the 'lever'. Cut the rod to length, mark and fit to the lever after sliding through the actuator. Mounted the actuator in a similar fashion to this vid, but without the bends.
    Oh, and if you dont have a torq tip, a 4mm hex key works just as well.

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