Honda CRV Driver Side Rear Door Lock Actuator Replacement – 2002-2006

Honda CRV Driver Side Rear Door Lock Actuator Replacement – 2002-2006

Hi, DIY Jeff here, and today we’re going
to be replacing the door lock actuator on the driver side rear door of this 2005
Honda CRV. This driver side passenger rear door will not lock or unlock with the inside lock or the remote. The only
way to unlock it is manually, so we’re gonna fix that today. As with all DIY
projects working on your car anytime you’re dealing with anything electrical
you should unhook the negative battery cable which you can see here I’ve done.
Before starting to remove the door panel be sure that you roll your window all
the way down its gonna not be possible to get the actuator out with the window
up the window needs to be all the way down. In order to remove the actuator, we
will need to remove the door panel. The first step to remove the door panel will
be to take off the trim around the door handle latch and then we will remove
some screws behind this access panel. What I have here today is a very small
flat-head screwdriver and I’m going to show you how you can easily pop this
panel out. So to remove this cover plate we’re gonna take our small flat-head
screwdriver put it in the notch, leverage it up, and then just pull down
and the cover comes out. We have one phillips head screw here and it is hard
to see with the shadow but there is another Phillips head screw here. Remove
those and you’ll be ready to remove the trim off this door handle. For now we’re
gonna go ahead and leave this loose and not take off the bar that comes into the
door lock handle attached to it to activate the door. We’re gonna leave this loose it’s
possible that will be gonna be able to slide this in and
through this whole opening here once we get the door panel loose. Next we need to
take a screw off that’s holding this on it’s up inside here put my light up in
there and show you. So in that hole is a phillips head screw and need to pop…
unscrew that out. My car seems to be missing it but there’s also a screw
right here that you’ll need to take out. Now we need to remove this cap it’s
just held in with a clip, I’ll take my screwdriver I’m gonna come up underneath
here and just pry loose a little bit. Carefully pull that out. Under that
cap there is a another retaining clip here it’s a push button retaining clip.
I’m going to take my very small flathead get it down inside here push, pull that
out. As you get that middle section pops out and then you can pull that and the whole
clip comes out. With everything else removed at this point what we have here
are just retaining clips that are holding this in, so we want to remove
those now. To remove these I have a couple of tools a flathead screwdriver
and this just happens to be a little wrench I’ve got that I just use for
prying. I’ll get my flathead under here of course you want to be very careful, if you aren’t too careful you can end up breaking a clip, like the one I broke there. Do it real slow, it should just kind of pop
loose. As you can see they take very many. With all the clips removed on the
bottom this is just hanging loose and it just sits on this ledge so what I want
to do is I want to just lift up, and it comes off. We’re still attached so now
I’m gonna show you how to unattach all your wiring for your power window.
See if this will push through. There we go, push that through, that way we don’t have to disassemble that. I’m now looking at the back side of the panel looking from the
bottom up it’s still connected. I’ve got the door panel resting against
the the car. I’m gonna get my little screwdriver under here, under the tab on
this retaining clip and I’m gonna pop that loose. like that, and then on this tab here, I’m
gonna push down this clip, walk it out. We need to remove the vapor
barrier which is this white plastic and it’s held up here with some sticky stuff
it’s almost kind of like a gum. Go really slow peel that back you don’t want to
lose any of it because you’re gonna reuse that stick it back up slowly peel. So our actuator is down in here, a wide
view here. So you can see it our actuator is down here near the end. We need to first
off, we need to remove this door latch rod from its retaining and you can just
let it sit down there. Here you can see our door lock actuator that’s mounted up
inside here it’s the cream-colored unit there, and we have one electrical
wire on this door that plugs into that. So I’ve got this is the wire here that’s
covered in a sheath you go up here against the side here is where the clip
is, just reach down there put your thumb on that clip and pull and it’ll release. We
need to remove a screw on the actuator it’s very hard to see I’m gonna try to
get you in here. Alright so on the very top there of the actuator
you can see that brass screw and then you can also see a screw down to the
left. We need to remove both of those screws there may be more after that but
we got to get those out first. After taking out the two screws I start
wiggling this thing around and saw how loose it was just take your hand right up underneath
it, just kind of wiggle it, it will pop out. Wanted to give you a side-by-side comparison of the old
actuator with the new actually actuator. This is a Duralast actuator, I’ve had a
really good experience with these they have a limited lifetime warranty.
This one is DLA218 and this one is listed as the driver side front actuator,
but as you’re gonna see here they’re almost identical and reason that I
have the driver side front is for some reason the driver side rear actuator is
extremely expensive. This one here with a coupon I got for $36 or $37. The one that’s actually made for the rear is over a
$100 and I’m not sure why, but anyway let me just show you the
comparison. They look almost basically identical and Duralast makes
some great products. You can see the connection plugs are the same, the
mounting arm is the same, all the characteristics are the same. we turn it
over and they are same on the back sides as
well, so this one here just flips a little bit and that’s the same with this
one. So we’re gonna get this mounted in. I’m
gonna show you really quick how to put it back in. So I’m putting the new
actuator in it’s gonna be key that this here lever which controls the door latch,
but this little hole right here gets onto inside the green pin. See if we can find
it. All right, you can see that green right there at the bottom of that green
you can’t see it because the covering is over the top of it, but there is that
green arm comes down and it has a little stud on the end of it that this little
hole here has to go over. So this gets slid right up on top of that so, I’m
gonna give it a shot here I won’t be able to do it with the camera because I
can’t get two hands and do all that at the same time. so I’ll let you know how
it goes. So I think this job’s gonna be little bit easier if I can go ahead and
just get this plastic cover off, and wiggling it around it looks like it
might just have one screw that’s holding it in. Which would be down in here looks
like there’s a brass screw, phillips head I’m going to try to pull that out and see if
that plastic cover will come off. So to get that cover off it was just the one
brass screw and the orientation of this is it’s in here sideways like this. So
just gotta get that screw off be very careful you don’t drop that screw down
into the bottom of the container down here in the door, it’ll be a pain to
get out. I like to use a magnetic screwdriver that’ll help keep the
screw on the tip of the head of the screw, so anyway
pulled that out, and now you can see we can clearly see the tab right there, the
green tab, and that’s where the hole’s going to go. Once we get that back on
then we can go ahead and put that cover plate back on, that I just took off, and
put things back together. So I got the door latch clip assembled and I went
ahead and put in the the two mounting screws because they’re a lot easier to
put in before you put the cover back on. So I got those on there and I even gave
it a test so I can’t test it to lock with the way
this is, without shutting the door and everything, but I can’t put this in the
unlock mode. All right, so that is the lock mode. This would be down at this
point, and when I take the unlock button watch it pop up. So that tells me that
the actuator is working and I’ll give it a full test once we get everything put
back together. I’ve got the plastic guide back in, the cover there, and it did take a
little bit of time wiggling around to get it the right spot so the best thing
to do, that screw, goes through a threaded insert that’s in the plastic cap as well.
So you can back out the threaded screw, but still keep the screw in the
cap, and then get it positioned right over the hole push this down get it nice
and snug, and then you can screw it all the way back in. And you need a small
screwdriver, I was using something like this. If you get anything too long you’re not going to be able to get the angle to get in on it. Door panel
all back together, it’s time to give it a test.
So right now door opens, doors unlocked. Press the lock on the remote and the
vehicle locks. Two clicks on the unlock and the vehicle unlocks. So you can see it,
right now the vehicles unlocked. So lock, vehicles locked.
Unlock, and it’s unlocked. So there you go If you liked this video please click
like and subscribe to my youtube channel DIY Jeff for other instructional videos

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4 Replies to “Honda CRV Driver Side Rear Door Lock Actuator Replacement – 2002-2006”

  1. I just changed my actuator today on my 2006 Honda CR-V. I found your video so helpful and you made it so much easier. Thank you

  2. Jeff, I don't of you still followup on your videos but I have a quick question. At about the 6:40 mark, you were manipulating the door latch rod. While I was replacing my windows motor, moving that door latch rod to get room caused it to pop free on the inside of the door. (Not the door handle side) I can't tell where it connects to to fix it. Can you help here? I have a 2004 Honda CR-V

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