Reinforce and Burglar Proof Your Entry Door — by Home Repair Tutor

Reinforce and Burglar Proof Your Entry Door — by Home Repair Tutor


Hi, friends. It’s Jeff with Home Repair
Tutor. And today I’m going to share with you how to reinforce an entry door and make
it burglar proof. So why do you want to do this? Well, hey,
anybody can kick open this door and literally come in your house and take your laptop, your
iPod, your iPads in less than 5 minutes. And there’s no way the police are going to get
here that quick. So anyhow, that’s why you want to reinforce
your entry door and feel a lot safer about your home. So let’s get started.
So here’s the deal. I go the Easy Armor door reinforcement kit. And it was a little
bit pricey, it’s like $60 or $70 at Lowe’s. But it comes at three different kinds of shields
along with all the screws that you need to make your door impenetrable and really tough
for even the Incredible Hulk to kick in. So let me show you those parts before we get
started. Here are the three different kinds of shields.
You’ve got the door shield—you’ve got two: one for the dead bolt, one for the lock.
Then you have two hinge shields that go overtop your hinges. You don’t have to remove the
hinges at all. And then, the final and most important thing is this huge piece right here
that is the jam shield. And it’s got all sorts of knockouts in it so you can line it
up with your jam and the straight plates on your jam. So I’ll show you how to install
all this stuff. And they give you—the cool part is—they should give you these screws
for $60 or $70. But they give you all the screws that you need to screw these into place.
So I’ll show you how to do that right now. So before you do anything, you want to take
the hinge shield. You want to stick it in between the door and the jam. And make sure
that it fits because this hinge shield is the same width as the jam shield. You just
want to make sure that it fits along that space. And obviously it does here because
I have more than 1/8” of space between the door and the jam. And this shield is probably
about 1/16” wide. But do this for your door. If this doesn’t
fit, if this is too tight, then maybe this product isn’t the right one for you and
you can take it back. This is the middle hinge, okay? And this is
the hinge you want to work on. You want to remove these two screws that are closest to
the insulation strip here. So remove this one.
First of all guys, look how small this screw is. Oh my gosh! It’s like ½”-¾” in
length. It’s pathetic. Now somebody obviously knew that they wanted
to reinforce this hinge because this one’s about 2-2½” long. But nonetheless, you
want to remove these two screws. The next step is to take a 3½” long screw
that they provide, okay? And screw that through the hinge into the jam and into the supporting
lumber behind this jam. Now they say to pre-drill, but since I’m
using an impact driver, I don’t need to do that, okay?
The next thing that you do is line up the hinge shield so that the hole that is left
behind that’s in the hinge is revealed. You take another 3½” screw, all right,
and you drill that into place such that it’s flush as much as possible.
The next step is to install two more 3½” screws in the hinge shield—one at the top,
and one at the bottom. Now again, you can pre-drill—I’m not going to—but you can
pre-drill if all you have is a regular drill, not an impact driver. Make sure that screw
is flush both on the top and on the bottom. Next thing that you want to do is shut the
door and make sure that this doesn’t prevent the door from closing properly. Now one thing
I will note on this door, because it’s a little bit cheaper, is they did not groove
out a mortise such that the hinge can sit inside that mortise and flush with the door
frame itself. So that could be an issue for you. It could be an issue for me here. But
let’s see if it’ll shut. So it shut. No problem. I’m good to go.
And I don’t have to groove out a mortise on the jam either. You just put this hinge
shield overtop your existing hinge. The next step is to do the same thing for
the bottom hinge. Again, check to see if the door will close. Boom, it does! All right,
all right! So now I’m going to install the jam shield.
And what you need to do is note the position of your strike plates. Here’s the dead bolt
strike plate. Here’s the door lock strike plate, okay? So there are many different knockouts
on the jam shield. And so what you want to do is make sure that you locate a knockout
that corresponds with each strike plate. So look, I’ve got this one and this knockout
that I can easily remove with my thumb, okay? All right.
All right. So now that I know I have everything lined up, you want to shove in the jam shield
as far as possible so it actually fits behind this insulation strip, okay? And then what
you do is mark holes with a pencil like so. So I get a hole here and here and up here.
And you can pre-drill or use an impact driver to get screws into those marked holes.
Instead of pre-drilling, I’m just going to put this screw in here maybe about ½”
and backed it out, okay? Then what I’m going to do is slide the jam shield back into place
and stick a screw in here. And again, this is a 3½” screw, all right?
Okay, there are two more spots on the bottom here that need to be secured with screws.
And there are two more holes at the top of the jam plate. Again, secure them with two
3½” screws. And then once you’re done, just check to
make sure that the door closes with limited interference. Not bad. Not bad.
When you line up the strike plate on the existing dead bolt or door handle, make sure that this
slot lines up with the slot on the Easy Armor plate, okay? Otherwise, the door may not close
properly. You can install these door shields over the
dead bolt and the regular door lock here, okay? Now before you do that, I highly recommend
that you test to see whether or not this can clear the door jam.
Now what I did first was I put the jam shield on. With the jam shield in place, what you
want to do is slide this door shield over the dead bolt and see if it’s going to clear.
And it doesn’t in this case. So there’s not enough room, and I’m not going to be
using these, all right? However, as a last resort, we can do is take
out the tiny screws that hold this in place—both these locks that’s in place—and use the
2½” screws that come with the Easy Armor kit that were meant for the door shield, okay?
So simply just take out these screws, okay? Take out both of these tiny screws and install
the 2½” screws. Do the same thing down here.
All right. That’s it. That’s how you install the Easy Armor door reinforcement kit. I hope
that this video helped you out. Let me know if you have any questions in the
comments section. I’d be more than happy to help you with your own project.
Visit HomeRepairTutor.com. Sign up for my email newsletter because you’re going to
get a ton of great tips that’ll save you money and time.
And until then. I’ll see you soon.

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100 Replies to “Reinforce and Burglar Proof Your Entry Door — by Home Repair Tutor”

  1. No need to buy the product to see if it will fit…if you can push two stacked quarters up the left and right sides of your door, you are all set.

  2. Good stuff but a few things:
    1. Still get an alarm system. Someone who wants to get in, will get in, regardless – by means of crowbars, shotguns, whatever means – or going through a window.

    2. A dog is a great alarm system, in addition to being another loud alarm, the idea of having to deal with a dog is off-setting for most burglars, probably more so than the racking of a shotgun slide.

    3. Own, practice, and be proficient in firearms safety and response – Safety first, as in knowing how to operate firearms you own with proficiency under stress, with discrimination, so as to not shoot family members you're intending to keep safe.

    4. Have a plan for invasion – they may come through windows instead of doors, as stated before – and rehearse the plan. The plan should be independent of communication with the spouse and/or other family members, as in a shooting situation when the alarm is blaring, you may not be able to communicate well with other family members.

    Know and rehearse their immediate responses and yours.

    If it is to barricade in their room or safe place, which needs to be established well before something goes bump in the night, including their line of defense (firearm, hatchet, pepper spray, whatever it is), and code words for situation CLEAR should be established and well practiced, in the event a false alarm (weather changes can set off security alarms when sweating on sensors occurs, due to changes in such), or, if perpetrators have been silenced, when you attempt to re-establish contact with your family.

    No place is impenetrable. Always plan for the worst and hope for the best, but merely hoping in one line of defense is, unfortunately, in this day-and-age, not enough.

    Your home is your castle and your family is irreplaceable.

  3. This is a good idea, but the kind of door that you have will bend if kicked hard enough. I know, I lived in the hood. I just installed a security bar gate in between the door and the storm door. My cousin made a steel plate to reinforce the lock.
    Use security bars on all first floor windows. Have an emergency plan. You should have a fire escape plan for all floors. Steel bars that are designed to look like artwork will do the job to keep your aveage drug addict out of your house. Own a gun and a gun lock.
    You can have bars on the windows that use padlocks on the inside for an escape. In the ghetto, the stupid people have no emergency plan or fire drills resulting in death to the children. Also, keep a key near the barred windows so you can open the locks to get the hell out in case of fire. In Philly, so many Blacks and Latinos have died in their barred up homes that prevented the fire department from saving the kids and other members.

     In the city with rowhomes, the criminals just peel off the roof to rob you. The weakest part of the house is the roof. Most criminals come in the first floor windows, basement windows or a first floor door.

  4. This kit is extremely overpriced, and hinge guards 🤔.. I don't see the point, just replace all screws with longer ones.. Thx for the vid.

  5. 1)Replace all the hardware screws with ones that are 3" or longer.
    2) Buy 2 door hinges with removable pins.
    3)Remove hinge pins and sand/grind the shafts to where they slide in and out of the hinges freely.
    4)Mount the hinges on the opposite side of the door from the upper and lower hinges.
    5)When the door is closed,just insert the hinge pins.

    This set-up is inexpensive,easy to make/install,and will make it to where the door/frame has to be destroyed to breach.
    99% of the time when a door is breached,it's on the latch side.
    (Note:You can also toss the hinge pins entirely,and use two Phillips screwdrivers instead.)

  6. You could also just add two more hinges to made the door stronger on the hinge side as well as changing out all the short screws.

  7. Careful how you try to teach people things you don't fully understand… the manufacturer of the kit isn't telling you to pre-drill the holes because they assume the screw driver or gun is weak, it's main purpose is to avoid splitting the very door jamb you're trying to make stronger.

  8. My solution, having purchased n lived in my home 14years: HD 3/16" striker plate accepting both door latching bolt and dead bolt screwed into place 6x with 3" coarse thread deck screws on the front n side doors. Not burglar "proof" but certainly resistant.

    Armor plated the side door with welded on through-bolts so that interior and exterior plating serve in unison to resist door breakage. Finally, interior installed burglar bars visible from outside but masked on the interior by sheers & curtains.

    I can't stop them but I can make them pause to think about easier targets.

  9. Why not just screw on a couple of extra hinges? That would give it probably the same strength for 1/4 of the prince.

  10. the door is never kicked in from the hinge side, it is kicked in from the doorknob side. Watch any SWAT, police or military door breach. It is always on the lock side. Replace the deadbolt and lock strike short screws with 3 1/2" screws. This will anchor the 2 strike plates into the 2×4 wood wall framing of your door. You can add another layer of protection with a Lock-Door-Reinforcer on the doorknob-deadbolt part of the door for $22.32 from here https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-10539-Lock-Door-Reinforcer/dp/B006GDULOK/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1546948811&sr=8-4-fkmr0&keywords=door+lock+side+reinforce+kit. Total cost, $26.00. The Lock-Door-Reinforcer is a plainly seen metal addition that is obvious that more protection has been added.

  11. My question is I know they say use three inch screws is their a point of longer screws like six inches is there a point of diminishing return.

  12. Please, I'm not disliking your vid, but I'm curious about one thing. People in general really don't think about how secure their home is. What gets me is the window to the left of this door. You could have the most secure door, but if there is a full window, how secure is your home? I just wish my own home was more secure. But then too, if they want in they will find a way. Thank you for posting. I didn't know about door shields.

  13. Better do it to the back door, too. Then the burglar will just break a pane, go through a window and unlock your "secure" doors from the inside.

  14. Now I'm the kinda man that wouldn'tt harm a mouse but if I catch somebody breakin in my house, I gotta 12 gauge shotgun waiting on the other side!!

  15. Soo all that stuff is ok but what good would it do if someone came with aq cordless drill and a cobalt bit and drilled the locks out? Takes less than a minute and you are in. Worked for an old landlord and when tenants left and they had changed the locks and not let a key that is how i got into all of them. Much quieter than kicking a door in and one can close the door them and be pretty much undetected.

  16. I have a thick, solid 8ft door with 4 hinges and I just put three and a half inch screws in everything. By the time it takes someone to continue battering the door down I'll be ready with my good friend from Austria…

    And…. ALWAYS pre-drill !!

  17. 3 inch screws in the hinges, 3 inch screws in the striker plate for the jamb. Get a "Lockset repair plate" and use that to reinforce the edge of the door. Save yourself 50$ or more.

  18. THEY SAY TO PRE-DRILL SO YOU DON'T SPLIT ANY OF YOUR WOOD!! DOESN'T MATTER THAT YOU ARE USING A IMPACT OR NOT.. THIS STEP SHOULD NOT BE SKIPPED OVER.

  19. You can still make a key to open it or use a master key. If you drill the deadbolt no one can unlock it ,not even if they have a key.

  20. He made one mistake, he was supposed to remove the strike plate for the door knob, you no longer need that strike plate there. Also you always predrill in any door frame to prevent from splitting the door frame.

  21. You just made it easier to break in by not pre drilling, sometimes it's better to leave the work for the professionals

  22. Watching your video about reinforcing your door. Question : you mentioned creating a mortis for the middle hinge after placing the reinforced plate . Why do you need to do that since the door closed shut without any apparent difficulty???

  23. The only way to keep someone out of any house it to have steel door frames. I bet the cops could hit that with a battering ram at half strength and it would fly open faster than a mosquito contracts hep c at a nudist camp….

  24. Y reinforce my-i live in TEXAS-ill just shoot that bastard right in the face. if anyone tries to break in my home….

  25. Being a landlord for 30yrs I have first hand experience with the processes and benefits of "fortifying" entry doors. In general I was with you until you removed the screws in the door hardware and simply replaced with longer ones (w/o predrilling I'll note too) which really does nothing. Everything you did to that point does help a lot. But you can accomplish the same thing much cheaper simply by going down to the hardware store. Also, it helps to replace the screws going thru the hinge into the door as that interface is a weak point. Installing a shield to the outside of the frame covering the area where the bolts interface the striker plates is another inexpensive fortification.

    For the people who mentioned the window…I've been intalling lexan instead of glass on first floor windows.
    But in the end the only way to defend againt a break-in is a dog, a gun, and training.

  26. 10:1 the door is a hollow door that a good kick in the middle will put your foot through it. Easier of course it the nice big glass window with no security on it about 3 feet to the left of the door.
    Either that or just drill the locks. I personally would be upgrading the whole door to a steel plated fire door.

  27. Anyone worth their salt knows to keep wood from splitting, blunt the tip of nail or screw and it prevents it..guaranteed

  28. Garbage!! $60 or $70 rip off!! You can buy a security camera for that price. One size fits all?? Unnecessary lengths! You need to change the lock-set first. That one can be opened with a bump-key.

  29. He put all those long screws securing it to the frame however he left the small hinge screw still in the door .

  30. Great vid, and so helpful. In terms of using the 2.5 inch screws that would have been used for the door shields, do you need to check first that these screws will not hit either your deadbolt or the door knob once they are screwed the way in?

  31. Nothing will keep someone out of your house short of a suitable dog.
    "Sawzall".
    "Not just a pretty name.
    My cordless Sawzall will cut through that door or even right through a wall in no time at all.

  32. Gnome prepare scooter
    that toy ! your installing.
    DOES ABSOLUTELY FUCKING NOTHING !
    IT IS A USELESS PIECE OF SHIT !
    NOW [ THEY ] WILL JUST BREAK YOUR WINDOW… OR…
    GO TO YOUR BACK DOOR AND ENTER…
    OR…
    THAT'S A REALLY NICE GARAGE DOOR OPENER WITH RADIO FREQUENCY !
    you must own stock in that trash ! OR…
    Your getting paid…
    A lot of pennies
    To look like an idiot !

  33. Ha, ha, ha!!! 🙂 In Ukraine normal metals door min 2mm steel + gerda tytan lock + mottura j- series dual lock+ abloy protec cylinder. Normal door – 700~1000$.

  34. 0:35
    If you consider $70 to reinforce your door as pricey, you may as well keep your weak ass door the way it is.
    On the other hand $70 are too much for that kit. A couple of screws probably made out of some soft alloy and a few thin pieces of metal for $70?
    I'd rather buy my own screws and make sure they're strong. I also would definitely use screws that are bigger in diameter and have a larger screw head. If possible and useful, I'd also take even longer screws.
    I'd also get custom made hinge shields that have more places where you can put in screws. Same with the jam shield. But additionally, I would get a completely new strike box and strike plate.
    Instead of trying to reinforce that shitty ass lock, I'd get a proper lock.

    4:03
    Ok, not bad. But all you did was to shift the weak spot from the hinge-frame connection to the hinge-door connection. I bet the hinge is still screwed to the door with those pathetic, small screws.

    Oh, and of course you should always pre drill wood screws!!!

  35. Of course, the screws attaching the hinges to the door are still the same–a weak spot that remains.

  36. For all the "brick through window" comments. Most break -in's are targets of opportunity. My goal is to make my house difficult and not worth the time. Camera's (Arlo/Ring/Nest) in obvious and not so obvious places, obvious door reenforcement like this guy did, pick resistant locks (no kwikset/promax), security signs, lights, and in our case dogs. If someone really want's what you have they can probably get it but random thieves looking for an opportunity will probably bypass our place. And yeah, you should pre-drill.

  37. Please people read a few comments first before you start trying to teach the world with your little bit of knowledge. The first 8 comments were about pre drilling. Come on.

  38. You should have stared the video by kicking in the front door. Then try after you reinforce it. Also there is a giant glass windor or door, like 4 feet to the left, how do you reinforce that?

  39. Pre-drilling is not for your ease of install, its to avoid cracking wood. The wood will also crack less easily if somebody tries to get in with brute force. Using this on a cheap door that is not solid wood but instead made of thin panels of plywood is similarly pointless as somebody could punch or smash straight through the door and turn the lock.

  40. This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank You so much for this video, you are right on the money! AND, ignore everyone else's comments (fkn awesome dude).

  41. The front door has 2 window panes, the burglar will just break the glass and enter, didn't think of that did you?😉

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