Testing Your Glass Break Sensors using an FG701

Testing Your Glass Break Sensors using an FG701


No. OK. So this is the FG701, it’s
the recommended glassbreak simulator that’s still available
for most of the glass breaks that we sell. You always want to be sure that
it has a fully charged battery, or else it will just say battery
at you over and over again. And you also have to be
sure that the device is in test mode. So when this one
is in test mode, the little light lights
up to let you know. It blinks like once a second. So there’s two ways to
put it in test mode. You can do it with the FG701 and
you put it on activated manual. And then it makes this noise. [ZAP] And see now it’s in test mode. You have to do it within– I can’t remember if it’s
four meters or four feet. To get it out of test mode,
you just [ZAP] do it again. [ZAP] It’s hearing it. I know. I think it’s because
I got the cover open. Is there like an off test mode? Well, I have the
cover open because I want to show you the other
way to start in test mode. If you don’t have
that and you still want to put it in test
mode, you can actually short these two little
test pads inside here. Just right next to the battery–
see those two little gold things right there? If you short across those,
it’ll put it in or out of test. Now when you start
test mode, you have to stop it the same
way you start it, usually. Or you want to, anyway. And the reason they allow
you to do this with the FG701 is because normally
your glass break is mounted either on the
ceiling or up high somewhere. And you don’t want to have
to climb up there and do this every time you want to
put it in test mode. So that’s why you
can use the FG701. Do you all see? Pass that around so everybody
can see the little test pads. It’s those two little
gold things right there. You just short across them
to make it go into test. Now this works on 6GVs also? Mmhm. They also blink when
they’re in test mode? Well, they go into
test mode when you put the system into test mode. So you don’t have to do the
whole put it into test thing with the FG701, but
once it’s in test, you can use this to test it. Can you if you’re so inclined? Could it do what? Use this to do the test? I don’t think so. So you see the two
little gold things? When we talk about
shorting the test pads, that’s what we’re talking
about– those two little gold things next to the battery. So [INAUDIBLE] like a low
electricity or something and when you connect
it, it [SWISH] Yeah, I don’t know. Yeah, it sounds like you’re
getting electrocuted when you– Yeah, you’re shorting
something, so you’re obviously taking voltage away that was
there before, most likely. I don’t know
exactly what’s going on when you go across that. [ZAP] [ZAP] Maybe it’s how they
tasing someone. So when you test
the glass break, obviously you’re
going to mount it– is it 25 feet? 15 feet? Do you know, Michael? In the 20s. Is it 25? I think 25. You’re going to mount it
within 25 feet of the glass that you want to protect. So say we want to
protect this glass. It’s really hard to see the
LED from the front of it. [LAUGHTER] So you would set your
tester on test and flex. So what this is doing is this
is listening for the flex sound as well. [CRASH] What the fuck was that? And it tripped. Making the glass break sound. [INTERPOSING VOICES] Do it again. [CRASH] Oh, that’s really cool. It’s really something real. [INTERPOSING VOICES] [CRASH] But you’re supposed to point
the speaker towards the glass break. And every time it alarms,
that little red LED comes one. So we’re testing it
right now, it’s not even learned into the panel. You can test it without
even being programmed, but when you do test it, it’ll
send a fault to the panel. So if it is learned in, it
should fault whatever zone this is programmed on. Cool, you want to have
your system in test mode? Right, yeah, if you’re
going to do that. [ZAP] [ZAP] [LAUGHTER] It’d be nice if they
had an app to do this. Yeah, I know. I actually sent
Honeywell a suggestion. Yeah, I feel like as
it goes, I wouldn’t want to buy a glass
break detector if I only have one to operate. [INTERPOSING VOICES] If I
only have one glass break– I would understand if I had
10 of them maybe, then yeah. Yeah. How expensive is it? Isn’t it like $70? It’s like $50. It’s $50, right? Yeah. The people here
from [INAUDIBLE],, they just YouTube
glass breaking sounds. Yeah, I know, but I don’t know. I mean, I can see this is less
likely to cause false alarms, a detector that works this way. So I don’t know. And can’t with this one, you
can certify a UL onstall. You can test the glass
break with this and– Well, let’s see,
here’s a patent. I don’t know. I don’t know the answer to that. I can try to find
it, but I don’t know. I have a feeling. It could be in the
installation instructions. Usually, if there’s
a UL element to it, it’ll have a UL sticker
on it somewhere. Looks like an ETL maybe. I would also guess wants to
do whatever possible to make you buy the simulator. Well, I told them that they
could probably make an app, charge $0.99 for it and
sell it all day, everyday. They’d have to sell 50
of the apps versus one of the simulators. Yeah, but who cares? Which is more likely. They’re not selling
any of those. [INTERPOSING VOICES] One thing I didn’t mention,
when you’re testing your glass break, you want to test your
glass in all four corners and the center of the glass. And it should trigger when
you hit each of those places. And if does, then you have
a reasonable expectation that it’s going to
trip the way it should when it’s not in test mode and
there’s actual glass breaking. So that’s always
a recommendation I give to people. And we put the blinds up. You really want to
put the blinds down. Anything that’s going to be an
impediment that would normally be there, you want to
test with it in place. Getting on a ladder
and standing outside. Does that mean you’d want to
stick that behind the blinds so you don’t put there– [INAUDIBLE] Well, yeah, exactly, that’s
how it should be tested.

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